About Togo

Togo is one of the poorest countries in the world. It has a little over 9 million inhabitants and is about one sixth the size of Germany. Being close to the equator it has a tropical climate all year round, with 22 to 28 °C at night and 32 to 39 °C during the day. Togo is a tropical, rain-fed agricultural country with a low level of training in crop farming. Almost two thirds of the population work in agriculture. The main crops are maize, yams, cassava and rice. Farms are small, field work is done laboriously by hand, yields are low and there is no money for machines.

Togo is divided into five regions: Maritime, Plateaux, Centrale, Kara and Savanes. From 1884 to 1914 Togo was a German colony; a railway line from that time is still partly in use. Germans are still welcome guests in Togo today, which makes many things easier. From 1914 Togo was under French administration, so French is the official language, alongside widely spoken Ewe and Kabiyè. Togo has been independent since 1960. The deep-water port in the capital Lomé is one of the largest on the West African coast and economically very important.

Map of Africa showing the location of Togo and its flag

Photo impressions from Togo

Everyday life

In Togo, as everywhere in Africa, almost everything is carried skilfully on the head, even 50 kg bags of cement.

From an early age children stay with their mother and are carried in a cleverly wrapped cloth.

Cars in Togo are almost all used cars from Europe. Here a wheel suspension is being repaired.

A yellow number plate means taxi. The Toyota Corolla is the favourite, probably because it is the toughest. The load is charcoal.

Charcoal is used for cooking almost everywhere, here deep-fried dumplings made of bean flour. Some cook with bottled gas, but that is more expensive.

Transport

A long-distance bus, usually a Mazda. Loading is everyone's own responsibility, and seats that get in the way go on the roof. There is no residence registration, people move all the time.

This bus had a problem with its suspension, constant overloading takes its toll eventually. The passengers bear it patiently. A flat fare is negotiated before the journey.

A taxi at full capacity, I counted about 20 people. On Sundays everyone goes to football, and most Togolese have little or no money.

In Togo cars are driven until they fall apart. There is said to be some kind of roadworthiness test, but a country this poor has different standards.

Only goods are loaded here, but each sack weighs 100 kg. The suspension springs probably come from a truck, the seats go on the roof, and off they go.

Truck traffic

Long-haul trucks are longer than ours and, depending on the number of axles, carry much more freight. Tolls on the highways depend on weight.

I do not know what restrictions apply to trucks, but nobody here is petty about it.

Many vintage trucks are still in service here, quality made in Germany. Only the grille and bumper do not look original, people are creative.

Markets and trade

Parked chickens near the market: just tie the legs together and that is it. The chickens take it patiently.

The choice of spices is enormous, including Maggi from Germany. Every village has a fixed market day, in Kpalimé it is Saturday and Tuesday.

Second-hand clothes in all shapes and sizes. If you are looking for something specific, people are very happy to help.

At the market you have to bargain well. As a white person you usually pay more unless you know the prices.

The choice is huge and prices vary with the season, everything gets more expensive in the dry season. You can shop on Sundays too, though with less choice.

Motorbikes

Moto-taxis on every corner carry all sorts of things: one holds a bicycle, the other a wheelbarrow on his head. Nothing unusual in Togo.

A motorbike with a cargo bed near the market. It carries goats, pigs or whatever else.

Chairs being delivered to a bar, by motorbike of course. There was football in the evening, and emotions run high. Few can afford a television.

A mason on his way to work by moto-taxi. Mortar is mixed by hand.

A nap on the moto. People here can sleep in almost any position.